2016 340i 2wd owner here. This is what I’ve done thus far and I’m super happy:
1) Stage 1 tune. Buy the full license so you can keep upgrading. That alone will put a big smile on your face.
2) Downpipe. I went AA catted bc they guarantee no CEL and they were right. Then you can go to Stage 2
3) xHP transmission flash. The shift map editor alone is awesome.
4) HPFP. I have the B58TU and it was super easy to install. Then you can go to Stage 2+
5) Pure800 turbo upgrade. I actually fried the stock turbo so I didn’t have a choice on this one but oh well.
Will be 6) Custom tune. After the fried turbo my play funds need to build back up so that’s coming.
The thing I need bad now is tires. All this HP is too much for all seasons. But she’ll go from 70 to 110 in a blink.
EDIT: I added an MST intake before step 2
Absolutely. It has some preset shift point maps and you can also set your own. For instance, 3rd gear is where my tune reallllly picks up, so I’ve set it to shift through 1 and 2 a little quicker, then I let the gears go longer. Basically I’ve mapped it to do what I’d do if I had a MT. It also has its own launch editor and torque reducer and some other handy mods like starting in 2nd always and showing the S gear in the cluster.
Downpipe, Intake and Chargepipe with a decent tune would get you in the low 3s for 0-60. Just depends on your goal for the car and what you want out of it.
B58 doesn't crack like the older models because the liquid to air intercooler is mounted to the intake, so the charge pipe doesn't flex. Instead of being one of the first things to upgrade, it's one of the last.
I don’t think you understand from a mechanical point why the B58 doesn’t need a chargepipe like the N54 and N55 do which is far more likely to blow on a stock tune than a B58 tuned to 600whp would.
B58 water to air intercooler means the means the chargepipe doesn’t experience nearly as much vibration and movement. The plastic chargepipe can easily hold the added boost, but once it starts vibrating under boost like on the N55 it becomes much more prone to cracks.
Honestly I don’t think the intake needs to be upgraded either get rid of the paper filter for a high flow but it’s bringing in fresh air from the kidney grills.
For my 340i I went with a CG precision race cat, and a burger Motorsport intake (honestly just for sound cause I switched to billet intake cause the sound IS AWESOME.
My next steps are to get bm3 with the extension. Run stage 2 for around 400hp, until getting the HPFP FOR 2+ or even a custom tune that should be a comfy mid 400’s minimum. But my warranty goes until March. So just waiting.
If you have an auto I’ve read that transmission tunes make a world of a difference
All you really need is the downpipe, either catless of high flow, and tune. I've been using bootmod3 for several years and have been very happy. If you plan to track the car you may want to consider upgrading the FMIC. You only need an upgraded HPFP if you plan to run full E85 or upgrade the turbo.
This is bad information, do you have a B58?
>If you plan to track the car you may want to consider upgrading the FMIC.
The B58 doesn’t have a FMIC…
>You only need an upgraded HPFP if you plan to run full E85 or upgrade the turbo.
Not true, HPFP will give about 3x more hp than the downpipe will even on 93 octane. Downpipe for stage 2 isn’t a significant bump over stage 1, stage 2+ with the HPFP is a much bigger increase of power and the way to make the most out of the stock turbo.
To me, the 'no brainer' path for the f3x cars is this:
\- Catless or high flow downpipe
\- Flex fuel module (MHD or BM3)
\- Tune
\- XHP trans tune
With just that you're going to be bouncing around 400whp or so, and coming from a stock \~300whp car, it'll be a ton of fun. If you're RWD, skip all this and buy an LSD, it'll make the car more fun than anything else.
I’d add a HPFP(TU Pump if keeping stock turbo or going PI) in there too. Doesn’t make sense to me to buy a downpipe or flex fuel kit if you aren’t upgrading the hpfp. Why stop at 400whp when you can get to almost 500whp for an extra $400?
You’ve pretty much nailed it, downpipe and HPFP (aka stage 2+) is all you need to max out the stock turbo with some ethanol. Intake isn’t necessary but I like my BMS intake, for $200 it adds some nice turbo sound but it’s not overly loud.
If you plan to run any ethanol then I’d recommend a flex fuel kit, it’s not necessary but it just makes everything a lot more convenient because you don’t have to worry about testing and measuring out the ethanol and gas blend. You just fill up and the kit will measure and auto adjust the tune based on the current blend. So if you over pour to say e35, your e30 tune will auto adjust to an e35 tune.
For tuning platforms I’d just watch some videos and see what UI you like better, if you are just doing OTS maps they are all pretty much the same. If you plan on doing a custom tune then talk with your tuner and see what platform they use.
Edit: I forgot to mention XHp trans tune, get it.
This is very informative I appreciate it, down pipe I figured I’d go with vrsf, would you happen to know the difference between their race version and street version?
I don’t know for sure but my guess would be catless vs catted, is street version significantly more expensive? If so that’s probably because it has a high flow catalytic converter.
Yeah vrsf catted DP will throw a CEL anyways(won’t pass inspection) so you might as well get a catless from them and tune out the CEL. There are a couple brands whose catted don’t throw CELs and will pass inspection but those are like $1,000.
I just got into a 440i from my 320i, and the first thing I’m doing is TIRES. Holy shit do these pirelli run flats suck. Feels like driving on bicycle wheels. From there it’s mst intake and stage 1 bm3. Gonna probably enjoy that for a few months before catless and stage 2. I’m of the opinion you gotta stay in stage 1 for a while so that stage 2 feels that much sweeter.
I can’t wait to get rid of my pirelli r/f. They have so much tread that I feel it’ll be a waste to just replace them right now. But definitely will be going with the pilot 4S.
How has nobody mentioned suspension. Stock struts and springs handle like complete garbage and if you’re tuned and have a DP, shit gets real wiggly real quick.
2016 340i 2wd owner here. This is what I’ve done thus far and I’m super happy: 1) Stage 1 tune. Buy the full license so you can keep upgrading. That alone will put a big smile on your face. 2) Downpipe. I went AA catted bc they guarantee no CEL and they were right. Then you can go to Stage 2 3) xHP transmission flash. The shift map editor alone is awesome. 4) HPFP. I have the B58TU and it was super easy to install. Then you can go to Stage 2+ 5) Pure800 turbo upgrade. I actually fried the stock turbo so I didn’t have a choice on this one but oh well. Will be 6) Custom tune. After the fried turbo my play funds need to build back up so that’s coming. The thing I need bad now is tires. All this HP is too much for all seasons. But she’ll go from 70 to 110 in a blink. EDIT: I added an MST intake before step 2
Do you think xHP is worth it if I'm running MHD stage 1 with the AA DP and VR intake? I have no plans to run stage 2+.
Absolutely. It has some preset shift point maps and you can also set your own. For instance, 3rd gear is where my tune reallllly picks up, so I’ve set it to shift through 1 and 2 a little quicker, then I let the gears go longer. Basically I’ve mapped it to do what I’d do if I had a MT. It also has its own launch editor and torque reducer and some other handy mods like starting in 2nd always and showing the S gear in the cluster.
Downpipe, Intake and Chargepipe with a decent tune would get you in the low 3s for 0-60. Just depends on your goal for the car and what you want out of it.
Man I heard charge pipe really isn’t necessary unless you’re really pushing HP, I’d like to get like 450ish out of it
Correct. B58 doesn't need an upgraded chargepipe.
It doesn't need a charge pipe until you are stranded. For the cost and security, just get it done
B58 doesn't crack like the older models because the liquid to air intercooler is mounted to the intake, so the charge pipe doesn't flex. Instead of being one of the first things to upgrade, it's one of the last.
It does crack. Have seen it crack. Agree that the urgency isn't there but it should still get done. Especially after throwing more boost at it
I don’t think you understand from a mechanical point why the B58 doesn’t need a chargepipe like the N54 and N55 do which is far more likely to blow on a stock tune than a B58 tuned to 600whp would. B58 water to air intercooler means the means the chargepipe doesn’t experience nearly as much vibration and movement. The plastic chargepipe can easily hold the added boost, but once it starts vibrating under boost like on the N55 it becomes much more prone to cracks.
For peace of mind, I'd rather spend the $300 instead of depending on BMW plastic that has been heat cycled thousands of times
If you want the peace of mind then go for it, but it’s not needed lol
How many kms? I have 78,000kms on my 2017 with no signs of cracks or leaks, but I'm not tuned.
Honestly I don’t think the intake needs to be upgraded either get rid of the paper filter for a high flow but it’s bringing in fresh air from the kidney grills. For my 340i I went with a CG precision race cat, and a burger Motorsport intake (honestly just for sound cause I switched to billet intake cause the sound IS AWESOME. My next steps are to get bm3 with the extension. Run stage 2 for around 400hp, until getting the HPFP FOR 2+ or even a custom tune that should be a comfy mid 400’s minimum. But my warranty goes until March. So just waiting. If you have an auto I’ve read that transmission tunes make a world of a difference
All you really need is the downpipe, either catless of high flow, and tune. I've been using bootmod3 for several years and have been very happy. If you plan to track the car you may want to consider upgrading the FMIC. You only need an upgraded HPFP if you plan to run full E85 or upgrade the turbo.
This is bad information, do you have a B58? >If you plan to track the car you may want to consider upgrading the FMIC. The B58 doesn’t have a FMIC… >You only need an upgraded HPFP if you plan to run full E85 or upgrade the turbo. Not true, HPFP will give about 3x more hp than the downpipe will even on 93 octane. Downpipe for stage 2 isn’t a significant bump over stage 1, stage 2+ with the HPFP is a much bigger increase of power and the way to make the most out of the stock turbo.
Whooops. Good call. I have an N55 and missed the B58 part.
No worries, if you had a B58 I was just worried you were going with the wrong mods/not getting the most of your turbo
To me, the 'no brainer' path for the f3x cars is this: \- Catless or high flow downpipe \- Flex fuel module (MHD or BM3) \- Tune \- XHP trans tune With just that you're going to be bouncing around 400whp or so, and coming from a stock \~300whp car, it'll be a ton of fun. If you're RWD, skip all this and buy an LSD, it'll make the car more fun than anything else.
I’d add a HPFP(TU Pump if keeping stock turbo or going PI) in there too. Doesn’t make sense to me to buy a downpipe or flex fuel kit if you aren’t upgrading the hpfp. Why stop at 400whp when you can get to almost 500whp for an extra $400?
You’ve pretty much nailed it, downpipe and HPFP (aka stage 2+) is all you need to max out the stock turbo with some ethanol. Intake isn’t necessary but I like my BMS intake, for $200 it adds some nice turbo sound but it’s not overly loud. If you plan to run any ethanol then I’d recommend a flex fuel kit, it’s not necessary but it just makes everything a lot more convenient because you don’t have to worry about testing and measuring out the ethanol and gas blend. You just fill up and the kit will measure and auto adjust the tune based on the current blend. So if you over pour to say e35, your e30 tune will auto adjust to an e35 tune. For tuning platforms I’d just watch some videos and see what UI you like better, if you are just doing OTS maps they are all pretty much the same. If you plan on doing a custom tune then talk with your tuner and see what platform they use. Edit: I forgot to mention XHp trans tune, get it.
This is very informative I appreciate it, down pipe I figured I’d go with vrsf, would you happen to know the difference between their race version and street version?
I don’t know for sure but my guess would be catless vs catted, is street version significantly more expensive? If so that’s probably because it has a high flow catalytic converter.
Ahh I was checking up on it late last night, that I read catless, track version it is, also $200 cheaper
Yeah vrsf catted DP will throw a CEL anyways(won’t pass inspection) so you might as well get a catless from them and tune out the CEL. There are a couple brands whose catted don’t throw CELs and will pass inspection but those are like $1,000.
I just got into a 440i from my 320i, and the first thing I’m doing is TIRES. Holy shit do these pirelli run flats suck. Feels like driving on bicycle wheels. From there it’s mst intake and stage 1 bm3. Gonna probably enjoy that for a few months before catless and stage 2. I’m of the opinion you gotta stay in stage 1 for a while so that stage 2 feels that much sweeter.
I can’t wait to get rid of my pirelli r/f. They have so much tread that I feel it’ll be a waste to just replace them right now. But definitely will be going with the pilot 4S.
I waited till I needed new tires to replace them on my 320i and I wish I didn’t. Really changed the driving experience
How has nobody mentioned suspension. Stock struts and springs handle like complete garbage and if you’re tuned and have a DP, shit gets real wiggly real quick.
I do have the m sport suspension, not sure how much better it is than stock tho